The Paracas peninsula juts into the Pacific from the Peruvian coast, a dry, red-and-ochre tongue of sand and rock where no rain falls for years, and it is as strange and beautiful a place as any on the Panamericana. The Paracas National Reserve covers a huge area of this coast and sea, with dramatic cliffs, empty beaches, and a Red Beach whose sand takes its colour from volcanic rock.
The sea off the coast is one of the richest in the world, fed by the cold Humboldt current, and the Ballestas Islands, a short boat ride from the pier, are covered with sea lions, Humboldt penguins, boobies and cormorants, whose guano was a major source of wealth in the nineteenth century. On the headland above the bay, the Candelabro, a giant geoglyph carved into the hillside, is visible from far out at sea and its origin is uncertain. The Paracas culture, which flourished here over two thousand years ago, left remarkable woven textiles and tombs, which came to light in the 1920s.
The riding on this section of the Panamericana is long, straight and often windy. The road is paved and fast, with desert on both sides and trucks and buses in great numbers, and the afternoon winds, known locally as Paracas, can kick up sand and push a bike across the lane. Heat, glare and sudden fog off the sea are also hazards. In the early morning, the light is soft, the air is cool and the road is quiet. Carry plenty of water, and keep an eye on fuel, as stations are spaced widely in the desert.
Pisco is the nearest large town, with fuel, supermarkets and restaurants, and it gave its name to Peru's national spirit, a grape brandy that is used in the pisco sour, the national cocktail. In 2007, a strong earthquake devastated Pisco and the surrounding area, killing hundreds of people, and the signs of rebuilding are still visible. In Paracas itself, the waterfront has small restaurants that serve ceviche, grilled fish and fried seafood, all fresh from the boats.
Time your visit for the late afternoon, when the sun falls low over the bay and the cliffs glow orange. It is a good place to start a long journey south toward Nazca.