Papingo is two villages, really, the big one and the little one, climbing the foot of the Tymfi massif in the Zagori, where the stone houses and slate roofs seem to grow out of the mountain. Above them, a wall of grey limestone rises to Astraka and the ridge that reaches nearly two and a half thousand metres, and the cliffs catch the last light in the evening in a way that makes people stop in the street. It is a very quiet place, with a few guesthouses and tavernas, and the sound of water running somewhere.
That water is a feature. Below the village, a stream called the Rogovo runs through a series of clear rock pools, cold enough to take your breath away, and in summer people walk down from the village to swim. The pools are small and shallow, and the water is snowmelt, so a dip is more of a shock than a swim, but it is wonderful after a hot ride. The area is part of the Vikos-Aoos National Park, which is home to brown bears, wolves, chamois and many birds of prey, though you are unlikely to see them from the road.
The road up to Papingo is a good one for riders, with a long winding climb through oak and plane woods, tight bends and a few hairpins, and a surface that is mostly decent but narrow. The traffic is light, apart from the odd local car and the animals, but the road is steep and there are drops, so keep to the right. The last stretch into the village is cobbled in places, which can be slippery after rain, so park at the edge and walk in.
Fuel is not available in the village, so fill up in Konitsa, about ten kilometres away, or in Ioannina, thirty-odd kilometres further. The tavernas serve local food, with pies, grilled lamb, wild greens and sheep cheese, and the guesthouses are warm and simple. Mountain weather changes fast, so bring a waterproof, and in spring and autumn pack a warm layer, as the nights can be cold, even in a stone-walled room.