Panther Junction is the headquarters of Big Bend National Park, a modest cluster of buildings, a visitor centre, a post office and a fuel station in the middle of the Chihuahuan Desert, on the road that connects the park's entrance with the Chisos Mountains. It sits at a little under four thousand feet, in a broad basin of creosote and yucca, with the jagged Chisos range to the south and a vast sky overhead. The park is one of the most remote in the lower forty-eight, and the nearest sizeable towns are a long way off.
Big Bend takes its name from the great curve in the Rio Grande, which swings south and then north again along the Mexican border, and the park contains deep canyons, desert plains and a mountain range with forests of pine and oak, all in a single protected area. It has more species of birds than any other national park, and mountain lions, black bears, javelinas and roadrunners live there. At night, the sky is among the darkest in the country, and the Milky Way is spectacular.
The Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive begins nearby and runs thirty miles south-west across the desert to the river at Santa Elena Canyon. It is named after the park's first superintendent, and it passes the volcanic spires of Mule Ears, the colourful rocks of Tuff Canyon, and the Castolon ruins, an old border trading post. The road is paved, with gentle curves and good views, and it crosses open desert, dropping toward the river. Heat is intense in summer, with temperatures often above forty degrees, so ride early or in the cooler months.
Fuel is available here, and it is wise to fill up before heading into the park's remote areas, since stations are few and far apart. Supplies at the store are limited, and the nearest towns are far, so bring water and food. Weather can be extreme, with summer heat, sudden thunderstorms, flash floods in the arroyos and winter cold snaps. Mobile phones do not work in most of the park. The best time is from November to March, when days are warm and the nights are cold and clear. Watch for wildlife crossing the road at dusk.