Few places on the Panorama Route justify the superlatives as well as the Blyde River Canyon rim. The canyon is one of the largest green canyons in the world, in the sense that subtropical vegetation covers its walls rather than bare rock, and it runs for tens of kilometres along the northern end of the Drakensberg escarpment. From the viewpoint car parks the red cliffs fall away to the river, the Blydepoort Dam and the reeds along the shore.
The three round, thatched-hut-shaped peaks on the far side of the canyon are known as the Three Rondavels, a name that comes from the traditional round houses of the region. They stand high over the water, and on a clear morning the light turns them a warm rust colour against the green below. Cloud often sits in the valley, and when it clears the view changes minute by minute, so a patient stop of half an hour can give you a very different photograph from a quick look.
The riding that links these viewpoints is gentle, with long open bends, a smooth surface and a lot of room, but you must stay alert. Tourist cars stop suddenly at the lookouts, there are vendors on the verge selling carvings and crystals, and in damp weather the cloud can drop visibility to a few metres. Come in the morning if you can, ideally on a weekday, when the light is soft and the car parks are quiet. Summer brings thunderstorms in the afternoon and a risk of lightning on the exposed ridge.
The nature here is rich. The canyon sits in the Blyde River Canyon Nature Reserve, and its slopes shelter hippos in the dam, crocodiles in the river and a wide range of antelope and birds. The cliffs hold a colony of Cape vultures, and the aloes along the rim flower in winter, filling the air with sunbirds. The rock is mostly sandstone and quartzite, and the colours range from yellow to deep red.
Small stalls and a simple cafe or two serve cold drinks and snacks, and there are guesthouses in the area if you prefer to linger for the sunset. Pay the small entrance fee where asked, keep your belongings out of sight when parked, and give the baboons a wide berth.