Graskop clings to the very edge of the Drakensberg escarpment, a small town that looks out over the Lowveld from a height of well over a thousand metres. Below, the land falls away in forested ravines to the plains that run all the way to the Kruger National Park. On a clear morning you can see far enough to understand why this stretch of road is called the Panorama Route.
The town has a past tied to gold. In the 1870s prospectors came to the nearby Pilgrim's Rest, a few kilometres north, and Graskop became a stop for wagons, miners and later the foresters who planted the pine and eucalyptus plantations that now cover much of the hills. Today it is a place for holidaymakers, with craft shops, small cafes and a long tradition of pancakes, which have become something of a local obsession. Order one with a savoury filling, as a lunch, and you will be in good company with half the other riders on this road.
The riding here is a pleasure, with long climbs through plantation forest, swinging curves above the escarpment and cool mist that can drift across the road in the early morning. The R532 and R533 are well surfaced but narrow in places, and tour buses and trucks make passing a task for patient riders. Be careful on damp mornings: the tar is smooth and the shade of the pines can hide patches of wet. Early starts reward you with empty roads and crisp air, while afternoons often bring cloud and thunderstorms in summer.
Graskop is a good town for practical stops. Fuel is available, there are banks and shops, and a number of guesthouses give you a place to sleep before tackling the viewpoints. A short walk from the main street leads to a gorge with a suspension bridge and lift, which is a modern attraction added to a place already famous for its views. Do not wear your full leathers for the walk, because it is humid.
Most travellers pass through quickly on their way to the better-known sights, but it pays to give Graskop an hour. The town marks the start of one of the best motorcycle roads in the country, with a string of waterfalls, canyons and viewpoints that unfold north and east of here. Fill the tank, eat well, and then ride toward God's Window and the Blyde River Canyon while the light is still good.