Palūšė, the village on the map as Palus, sits on a narrow strip of land between two lakes in the heart of Aukštaitija National Park, and the setting is the whole charm. The water is on both sides of the road, dark blue in the sun and slate grey under cloud, with pines on the shores and the shapes of small islands in the distance. The village is quiet, with wooden houses, gardens and the occasional boat pulled up on the bank.
What makes Palūšė well known is its wooden church, one of the oldest in Lithuania, built in the mid-eighteenth century in the traditional local style, with a pitched roof, a separate wooden belfry and a simple interior. Wooden churches like this once stood in every village in the country, and many were lost to fire and war, so the survivors are treasured. The church stands on a rise above the water, and the churchyard, with its old crosses and trees, is a calm place to stop for a few minutes, even if you are not a keen visitor of churches.
The park's visitor centre is nearby, and a walk to the Ladakalnis hill, a short climb through the forest, gives a view over a string of lakes that is the best way to understand the shape of the land. The lakes were formed by glaciers, and the long, narrow ones follow the old tunnel valleys where meltwater ran under the ice. In autumn the forest turns gold, and in winter the lakes freeze and become a place for skating and ice fishing.
The riding is easy and atmospheric. The road follows a gently winding path through forest and farmland, with the lakes appearing and disappearing through the trees, and traffic is light. Some of the surfaces are old and patched, and in the park there are gravel tracks leading to hamlets and campsites. Wildlife, from deer to foxes, is common and the evenings are long in summer. Mosquitoes and horseflies are a nuisance in the warm months, so carry repellent and a little patience.
Ignalina, about eleven kilometres away, is the nearest town and has everything you need, so it is sensible to arrive in Palūšė with a full tank. Some guest houses and farm stays offer simple meals, with smoked fish, potato pancakes and dark bread, and the beer and kvass brewed locally are cool and refreshing. Early morning, when mist lies on the water and cranes are calling from the shore, is the best time to be here.