Palmwag is a small oasis in the dry, stony north-west of Namibia, named for the palm trees that cluster around a spring on the Uniab River, and it is one of the few places in Kunene where you can find shade, cold water and a bed. The surroundings are a huge concession of desert and rocky hills, a wilderness of red earth and pale grass where animals roam freely, and the lodge sits at the edge of it like a small green island.
The ride in on the gravel is a classic. The roads out of Khorixas, Kamanjab and the south pass through a country of flat-topped hills, dry riverbeds and scattered mopane trees, with distances that feel endless and few other vehicles. The surface is wide gravel, mostly graded, though it can be badly corrugated, stony or sandy in places, and flash floods in the rainy season can cut the road or leave deep ruts. Care is needed with speed, because loose stones are easy to underestimate. Early morning and late afternoon are best, since midday heat is fierce. Fuel is normally available at the lodge, which is one of the few supply points in this part of the country, but it is wise to carry extra and check before relying on it.
The surrounding area is famous for desert-adapted wildlife. Desert elephants, which have longer legs and wider feet than their savanna cousins, roam the dry riverbeds, moving long distances in search of water, and black rhinos live in the rocky country, among the largest free-roaming populations in Africa. Lions, giraffes, oryx and springbok are also present, and the area is a haven for birdwatchers. Do not stop near elephants on the road, and give them space, since they can be unpredictable.
The history of the region is tied to its people. Himba pastoralists live farther north, herding cattle and goats and covering themselves with a paste of ochre and butterfat, and Damara and Herero communities live in the south. A veterinary cordon fence runs across the country to the south, and you will pass a control gate where officials may ask about your route. Good manners and a smile will go a long way.
The landscape's colours are spectacular, from orange rocks to the dry yellow grass and the green line of the palms. The air smells of dust, hot rock and sweet acacia flowers after rain.
Carry water, food, spare tyres or repair kit, and a satellite beacon if you have one. Distances are huge and help is slow, so ride conservatively and never at night.