Howler monkeys start the day in Palenque. Their roars echo through the jungle before dawn, and if you reach the ruins when the gates open, the mist still clings to the trees and the temples emerge slowly from the green. This Maya city, which flourished between the fifth and eighth centuries, stands on a shelf of hills above the plains of Tabasco, backed by dense rainforest, and it is one of the most beautiful archaeological sites in the Americas.
Palenque's most famous ruler was Pakal the Great, who reigned for nearly seventy years in the seventh century. In 1952 the Mexican archaeologist Alberto Ruz found a hidden staircase inside the Temple of the Inscriptions, leading down to Pakal's tomb, with a carved stone sarcophagus lid and a jade mask, one of the great finds of Maya archaeology. The palace, with its distinctive tower, and the temples of the Cross group are equally impressive, and streams and waterfalls run through the site.
The modern town of Palenque, with about forty thousand people, lies a few kilometres away on the plain. It is a busy, unremarkable place, but it has everything you need: fuel, food, hotels and mechanics. Many travellers prefer to stay in the cabins and lodges along the road to the ruins, among the trees.
For riders on the Chiapas Highlands Loop, Palenque marks the transition from the mountains to the lowlands. The road south toward Ocosingo and San Cristóbal climbs back into the highlands, passing the waterfalls of Misol-Ha and Agua Azul, a demanding but rewarding ride with countless curves and topes. To the east, the Frontier Highway runs along the Guatemalan border toward the ruins of Yaxchilán and Bonampak, through remote jungle with few services.
The climate here is hot and humid all year, and the rainy season from June to October brings heavy afternoon downpours. Ride early, carry plenty of water and plan your fuel stops carefully on the more remote roads. Visit the ruins at opening time to avoid the heat and the crowds, and take your time in the small museum near the site, which explains the history and displays some of the finest carvings found here.