Palamós is a working port that happens to sit on a beautiful bay. Unlike some of its neighbours on the Costa Brava, it has kept a fishing fleet and a daily rhythm that has little to do with tourists. In the afternoon the boats come in, and the fish auction in the harbour sells the catch. The town is especially famous for its red prawns, the gamba de Palamós, which Catalan cooks regard as among the finest in the Mediterranean, and you will see them on menus all along this coast, usually with a price that will make you think twice.
The old quarter climbs a little hill above the harbour, and there is a fishing museum on the waterfront that explains the town's relationship with the sea. There is also a stretch of sandy beach and, a short ride away, a string of rocky coves reached by little roads that wind through pine trees. The headland of Cap Gros and the nearby Cala S'Alguer, with its row of old fishermen's huts, show what the coast looked like before the building boom.
On the bike, Palamós is a place to arrive at rather than race through. The road from Sant Feliu de Guíxols runs up and down over wooded headlands before dropping into town, and in summer the stretches near Platja d'Aro and Calonge can be slow with holiday traffic. Beyond Palamós the road continues north through Calonge and towards Palafrugell and the little coves of the Baix Empordà. This is flatter, more open riding, with vineyards and farms replacing the cliffs. Spring and autumn are the best seasons, when the light is soft and a table at the harbour is easy to get.
Palamós has around eighteen thousand residents, so you can count on fuel stations, supermarkets and plenty of cafes. A coffee on the front, with the bay and the boats in view, is a good way to take a break before the road gets busy. If you want to eat, the fish and seafood are the obvious choice, and the rice dishes cooked with local seafood are a Catalan speciality. Be aware that restaurants in this part of Spain often serve lunch late, so if you arrive at midday you may find the dining room still empty and the kitchen not yet fully warmed up. Plan accordingly and you will eat well.