Paksong, which is also spelled Pakxong, is the unofficial coffee capital of Laos, a dusty market town set at the heart of the Bolaven Plateau where the air is cool, the soil is red and the whole economy smells of roasting beans. The plateau rises to over a thousand metres and catches regular rain, which suits both Arabica and Robusta, and the French planters who began growing coffee here in the early twentieth century left a legacy that Lao farmers have turned into a thriving industry. Plantations of shiny dark green bushes cover the hillsides, and in the harvest season, red berries are spread on tarpaulins to dry beside the road.
The town itself is simple, with a main street of shops and cafes, a busy market, and the sort of ordinary friendliness that comes with having few tourists. It makes a good base for the plateau, with guesthouses, noodle stalls and places to buy fresh coffee beans to take home. A cup of strong local coffee, often served with sweet condensed milk, is a morning ritual. Tea is grown here too, as is cardamom, and fruit and vegetables from the cool slopes are sold at the market, including strawberries and cabbage that would not survive in the lowlands.
The ride to Paksong from Pakse is a good one, climbing for about fifty kilometres from the Mekong plain onto the plateau, through villages and forest, with the temperature dropping noticeably. The road is generally paved and decent, though there are patches of damage and the occasional pothole, and trucks carrying coffee and produce share the route with motorbikes and minibuses. In the rainy season, from May to October, the downpours can be heavy and landslides are possible on the slopes. The dry season, from November to April, is the best time, with clearer skies and easier roads.
Paksong has fuel stations, shops, banks and basic guesthouses, which makes it the main service point on the plateau. The next sizeable place on the loop, Ban Thateng, is a small town with fewer facilities, so fill here and carry some cash. Phone coverage is reasonable in the town but may fade in the countryside.
If you have time, visit one of the coffee farms on the outskirts, where growers will show you the process from berry to cup. The farmers are proud of their product, and a tour is a good way to understand what the plateau is about.