Pak Chong is the working town at the foot of the Khao Yai hills, strung along the Mittraphap Highway, the long road that runs from Bangkok across the plateau into the north-east of Thailand. It is a busy, unglamorous place with a lot of traffic and a lot of shopfronts, and it is the practical gateway to Khao Yai National Park, the oldest in the country. About fifty thousand people live in the area, and it feels larger because of the stream of visitors, truckers and weekend tourists passing through.
The town has an unusual identity. The cooler highlands around it have long been cattle and dairy country, and Pak Chong is known across Thailand for its steak restaurants and its roadside cowboy flavour, a curious blend of Isan and Texas. The dairy farms produce milk, yoghurt and cheese, and the fields around grow corn, grapes and sunflowers. The vineyards of the Khao Yai region, a recent development in Thai agriculture, produce wines that are a surprise to those who expect Thailand to be only tropical. Food in town ranges from noodle shops and night markets to grilled meats, and a bowl of noodles at a street stall is a good bet.
Riding in and out of Pak Chong takes some care. The highway is busy with lorries, buses and cars, and overtaking is common and risky. Traffic lights, roundabouts and u-turn lanes add to the confusion, so take your time. Once you leave the main road, the roads to the park and the hills become much quieter, with gentle climbs through forest and farmland. The road into Khao Yai itself has many bends, and wildlife, including elephants, deer and macaques, may appear on the road, so keep to the speed limit and give them room.
Weather follows the monsoon. From May to October, afternoons are wet and humid, and storms can be heavy. From November to February, mornings are cool and the air is clear. March to May is hot and dry. The best time for riding is the cool season, particularly in the early morning.
Fuel is easy, with stations along the highway and in town, and there are plenty of cafes, bakeries and restaurants. Stock up here before heading into the hills, where services are scarce.