Close to the most heavily fortified border in the world, three royal tombs of the Joseon dynasty lie in a quiet pine forest in Paju, north of Seoul. Pajusamreung, the three tombs of Paju, include the resting places of Queen Jangsun and Queen Gonghye, both married to kings and both of whom died young, and of King Jinjong, honoured after his early death. Like all the Joseon royal tombs, they follow a precise layout of spirit gates, stone paths, shrines and grass mounds guarded by stone officials and animals, and they are part of the World Heritage listing of the Royal Tombs of the Joseon Dynasty.
The forest around the tombs is peaceful, with walking paths through pine and oak, and the site sees few foreign visitors. Gongneung, Sulleung and Yeongneung, the three tombs, are spread across gentle hills.
Paju lies on the Imjin river, which forms part of the border area with North Korea, and the Demilitarized Zone is close. Imjingak, a park near the border, has monuments to the Korean War, a bridge that prisoners crossed at the end of the war, and observation points looking north. Tours to the DMZ and the Joint Security Area at Panmunjom leave from Seoul and Paju, subject to security conditions. Heyri Art Village and the Paju Book City are modern cultural districts nearby.
Riding in Paju is mixed: busy roads and new towns near Seoul, quieter roads near the border, with military checkpoints and restricted areas. Do not stray into restricted zones, and follow signs carefully. National roads are the only option for motorcycles, as expressways are closed to them. The Freedom Road along the Han river is a motorway and off limits.
Goyang, ten kilometres away, and Munsan have fuel and services. Paju is known for its jangdan beans, grown on the fertile plains near the border, and celebrated with a festival in autumn; tofu dishes in local restaurants make the most of them.