Visitors to Bahrain tend to know two things: the Formula One race and the heat. The Bahrain International Circuit at Sakhir, a short ride south of these mounds, hosted the first Formula One grand prix in the Middle East in 2004 and has been a fixture on the calendar ever since. The pair of Royal Mounds 11 and 12, with their rounded humps and silent faces, offer a startling contrast to the roar of engines. Four thousand years before anyone dreamed of a motor race, the people who lived here were building monuments meant to outlast any circuit.
The circuit is open for tours and track days at various times, and a ride past the grandstands is a reasonable detour for anyone who enjoys the sport. The desert setting is striking, with the track set in a wide expanse of pale sand and distant hills, and the pit complex rises out of the flat land like a ship. Check the website before going, because access depends on the event schedule.
The mounds themselves are a short ride from Madinat Isa, on the A'ali plateau. They are two of the seventeen or so large royal tombs in the cluster, built roughly four thousand years ago and now part of a World Heritage Site that includes twenty-one separate burial sites across the island. The pair stand close together, with a narrow gap between them, and from the right angle they seem almost to lean toward each other.
On the road, you will find a mix of wide, modern carriageways and older local streets. The main roads are fast and well signed, and speeds are enforced by cameras, so keep an eye on the limits. Roundabouts are frequent, and local drivers use them with enthusiasm. When it rains, which is rare, the roads become dangerously slippery, as oil and dust turn the surface to grease.
Fuel is cheap and available everywhere. Madinat Isa has everything you might need, and Sakhir has a small number of cafes and a visitor centre. Bring water, sunscreen and a sense of humour.