Two mounds standing side by side look like a conversation, and the pair of Royal Mounds 13 and 14 has the look of one that has gone on for a long time. They sit close together in the A'ali cluster, their domes overlapping slightly at the base, and from a distance they resemble the humps of a sleeping animal. Archaeologists have noted that some of the royal tombs seem to come in groups, perhaps reflecting family relationships or generations of a ruling line, though none of this can be proved.
The mounds belong to the early Dilmun period, built around 2000 BC, when the island was a trading hub and a cultural centre. Dilmun merchants dealt in copper, pearls, dates and textiles, and the wealth that flowed through the island paid for monuments on a scale that still impresses. Pearl diving, which gave Bahrain its fame in later centuries, may have roots in the same era, and the old pearling path in Muharraq is another UNESCO site that explains how the industry shaped the island's merchant families.
Riding to the site is easy. From Madinat Isa, a short run along wide, flat roads brings you to a small car park near the fence, and you can leave the bike and walk. The ground is hard limestone with patches of loose sand, and if you step off the path in a pair of thin-soled boots you will feel it. Wind can be a problem: gusts across the plateau can be strong enough to move a bike on its side stand, so choose a sheltered spot and keep the stand on firm ground.
Services are nearby, with petrol stations in Madinat Isa and shopping malls a little further. In Bahrain, even a minor roadside stall will sell cold water, and cafés usually give a glass of water with every order, so do not hesitate to ask.
For a sense of the scale, walk around the pair slowly, counting your steps. It takes longer than you would think.