From the outside they look like barns: low stone buildings with steep pitched roofs of flat tiles, sometimes covered by a second wooden roof to keep off the snow. Inside, every surface glows with Byzantine and post-Byzantine frescoes. The painted churches of the Troodos mountains in Cyprus, nine of them inscribed in 1985 and a tenth added in 2001, form one of the richest collections of Byzantine painting anywhere.
The church of Panagia tou Araka at Lagoudera has frescoes from the late twelfth century, of extraordinary quality, while the church of the Holy Cross at Pelendri has fourteenth-century paintings. Each church has its own character, and visiting several gives a sense of how painting evolved over centuries. Many are kept locked, with a key holder in the village, so be patient and ask around.
The Troodos mountains rise to nearly 2,000 metres at Mount Olympus, and the landscape is a mix of pine forests, terraced vineyards, orchards and villages perched on steep slopes. In summer the mountains are cooler than the coast, and in winter they can be snowy. The villages produce wine, including the sweet Commandaria, zivania, a strong spirit, and smoked meats like lountza.
Riding in the Troodos is a joy. The roads are winding and steep, with endless curves through forests and villages, and views over the island to the sea. Traffic is light, except at weekends when locals head to the mountains. Surfaces are generally good, but watch for gravel, fallen rocks and slow vehicles. Remember that Cyprus drives on the left, and that mountain roads can be narrow and blind.
Fuel is available in the larger mountain villages, but stations are spread out, so fill up when you can. Limassol, twenty-seven kilometres away as the crow flies but much further by road, has all services. Food in the mountain tavernas is excellent: meze, halloumi, grilled meats and local wine.