Pai is a small valley town in the mountains of Mae Hong Son province, in the north-west corner of Thailand, and it has a reputation that far outweighs its size. A few thousand people live here, at a bend in the Pai River, and in the last few decades the place has attracted travellers, artists and musicians who stayed for a while and never quite left. The result is a mixture of old Shan and Yunnanese Chinese culture, backpacker cafes and a night market that sells everything from fried insects to handmade jewellery.
The road to Pai is part of the legend. Route 1095, which comes up from Mae Malai, is said to have over seven hundred bends in about a hundred kilometres, and riders count them, or claim to. The road climbs through teak forest and over a ridge before dropping into the valley, and it is a splendid ride, with well-made tarmac and a lot of traffic of its own. The corners are tight, the gradients steady, and the minibuses full of tourists take them fast, so watch for blind corners and for vehicles cutting across the line. Road accidents are common here, and helmets are essential.
Near the town, the Pai Canyon is a ridge of narrow clay ridges with steep drops on each side, and people gather there at sunset. A short ride to the hot springs at Tha Pai is a good way to ease sore muscles. Wat Phra That Mae Yen sits on a hill above the town, with a long stairway and a view across the valley. The valley itself is green, with rice fields and tobacco, and in the cool season, morning mist sits low among the trees.
Pai has a gentle climate between November and February, with cool mornings and warm afternoons. The rainy season, from May to October, brings downpours and landslides on the road, and the hot season, in March and April, is often smoky from burning in the fields and forests. The best time to ride is the cool season, with the clearest air.
Fuel is available in town, and there are many cafes, restaurants and guesthouses. Ask around for a reliable bike mechanic if you need one, as there are a few. A bowl of khao soi, the northern curry noodles, is the local dish to try.