Pai is a small town in a green bowl of hills in the far north-west of Thailand, near the Burmese border, and it has been a backpacker retreat for decades. The Pai river winds through a valley of rice paddies and tobacco fields at about five hundred metres, and the mountains around it hold bamboo huts, hot springs, waterfalls and the villages of Shan, Lisu, Lahu and Chinese Yunnanese communities. The town itself is a cheerful tangle of guesthouses, bars, cafes and craft shops, with a night market along the walking street, where stalls sell grilled corn, fruit shakes, noodles and handmade bags.
Getting here is the first challenge. The road from Chiang Mai, Highway 1095, is famous for its twisting curves, and a sign on the way proudly claims there are 762 of them. It climbs over a mountain pass, running through hardwood forest and past viewpoints with coffee stalls, and the bends are tight, steady and often tree-shaded. The surface is generally good, but there are patches of loose gravel, and heavy rain brings mud and slips. Scooters are common, and so are accidents, so pace yourself and ride defensively, as the road is shared with trucks, buses and tourists on rented bikes.
Pai has some quiet local history. The Pai Memorial Bridge, a steel structure on the edge of town, recalls the Second World War, when Japanese troops passed through the area. On a hill above town sits Wat Phra That Mae Yen, a white Buddhist temple reached by a long staircase of 353 steps, with a view across the valley, best at sunset. Pai Canyon, a maze of narrow ridges of eroded earth, is another sunset spot, though the edges are not fenced, so take care.
The best season is November to February, when the air is cool and clear, mornings are misty and the hills are green after the rains. From late February to April, farmers burn their fields across northern Thailand and the valley fills with smoke, which can be hard on the lungs and spoils the view. The rainy season, from June to October, makes the road slippery, though the waterfalls are at their best.
There is fuel in town, as well as repair shops, pharmacies and plenty of food, from northern Thai sausage and khao soi curry noodles to simple Western breakfasts. It is a place to relax for a day or two, before taking the road on toward Mae Hong Son.