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Padysha-Ata State Nature Reserve

Opening times, access and services can change - check before you go.

In the far west of Kyrgyzstan, where the Chatkal range runs along the edge of the Fergana valley and the border with Uzbekistan, a steep, forested set of mountains shelters the Padysha-Ata reserve. It is a strictly protected nature area, one of several state reserves in the country, and its purpose is the plain business of keeping a piece of the western Tian Shan as it was. The slopes carry forest and mountain meadow, rivers rush down from snowfields, and the peaks above are high enough to carry glaciers.

This is a remote place, and not one with a large visitor infrastructure, and details like access, permits and trails change from year to year. Strict nature reserves in Kyrgyzstan often require permission, and areas near the border are sometimes restricted, so arrange it before you go, ideally through a local community-based tourism office or a guide. Do not plan to ride into the reserve itself, because the point of such a place is that vehicles stay outside.

The surrounding country is superb riding, if you are prepared. The roads in southern Kyrgyzstan wind along river valleys and over high passes, with surfaces that range from good asphalt to broken gravel, and landslides and washouts are possible after rain. Distances are long, towns are few, and the altitude gives you cold nights even in summer. Shepherds move their flocks to high pastures, the jailoo, in summer, and yurts appear on the green slopes, where hospitality is a matter of honour. Accept a bowl of kymyz, the fermented mare's milk, if you dare, and fresh bread with cream.

The nearest town is Kerben, about thirty kilometres away, with a few shops and basic fuel, and larger services are in Jalal-Abad, a long drive away. Carry spare fuel, water, tools and some cash in som, since cards are not widely accepted. Summer, from June to September, is the only sensible season for the high roads, and autumn brings crisp air and golden walnut and poplar trees in the valleys.

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