Packwood is a small town on the south side of Mount Rainier, on US 12 in the Cowlitz Valley, about twenty miles west of the White Pass summit, and it has long been a place where people stop for something to eat. The population is only a few hundred, but the town has a handful of cafes, a general store and a gas station, and in a stretch of road with very little else, that counts as a metropolis. It is known locally for its flea market, held in summer, which has grown into a large gathering of vendors and visitors.
The valley is forested and steep, with the Cowlitz River running over boulders and the snowy bulk of the Goat Rocks Wilderness to the east. Rainier itself is hidden behind ridges from town, but a road runs north to the park's Ohanapecosh entrance, through old-growth forest of Douglas fir and western red cedar, some of the tallest trees in the park. The state highways around here are well surfaced, with smooth bends and a limit that fits the terrain, and they are very good for riding, especially in the early morning when the mist hangs over the river.
US 12 over White Pass, at about 4,500 feet, is one of the quieter crossings of the Cascades, and the road from Packwood winds up through forest to the ski area at the summit and then drops into the dry country of the east side. Rain falls here heavily on the west side, and the change on the other side is dramatic, with ponderosa pine and sage replacing the cedar and moss. Take rain gear, as showers are frequent even in summer, and expect cold on the pass.
Fuel is available in town, but the pumps are small and the hours can be short, so do not leave it late. Elk graze in the fields near the town in the evening, and black bears are common in the forest. Summer is the main season, when the road is dry and the passes are open, and the autumn colours of the vine maple are a bonus.