Beyond the climb the land changes character. East of Walcha the Oxley Highway runs across the edge of the New England tablelands, a country of rolling pasture, granite outcrops and deep river gorges, and the forest of the coastal ranges gives way to open grassland dotted with sheep and cattle. The altitude is around a thousand metres, and the air is noticeably cooler and drier.
The gorges are the big feature. The rivers of the tableland, including the Apsley and the Macleay, plunge off the plateau into steep canyons, and the highway passes close to the edge of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park, one of the largest areas of protected wilderness in the region. A short detour leads to viewpoints and falls, where the water drops into rocky gorges hundreds of metres deep. In spring and after rain the falls are at their best, and the mist rising from the gorge can be dramatic.
The riding on this section is fast and relaxed. The road runs along ridges and across open country, with long, flowing curves and good views, and the traffic is light. Wind can be strong on the exposed ridges, and in winter, frost and fog can make the surface slippery in the early morning. Stock sometimes wander onto the road, and kangaroos are common at dusk, so keep a wary eye on the verge.
The area has a long pastoral history. Settlers took up large sheep runs here in the 1830s and 1840s, and the wool industry shaped the landscape and the towns. Many of the original homesteads and woolsheds survive, and some are open to visitors. Aboriginal people of the Anaiwan nation lived here for millennia, and their stories are linked to the land, the rivers and the seasons.
Walcha, seventeen kilometres away, is the nearest town and has fuel, shops and cafes. There are no services between here and there, so make sure you have enough before leaving the coast. Weather can be cold and changeable, with sudden showers and strong winds, so carry waterproofs and a warm layer, even in summer. The light in the late afternoon is beautiful across the grasslands.