Between the coast and the tablelands lies the real Oxley, a stretch of the highway where the road winds through steep forest and the landscape is rugged, wooded and almost empty.
The riding is the main attraction. The bends come one after another, from tight hairpins to fast, open curves, and the surface is generally good, though the road is narrow in places. The forest on both sides closes in, and shadows can hide damp patches, leaf litter and gravel. Cattle may wander onto the road in unfenced sections, and wildlife is common, particularly at dusk. Visibility around the bends is limited, so keep to your side and ride within your limits.
The forests here are part of a network of national parks and state forests that protect some of the most important woodland in eastern Australia. The tall eucalypts, tree ferns and rainforest pockets shelter koalas, wallabies, lyrebirds and a huge range of birds, and in spring the wildflowers and flowering gums add colour. The air is cool and fresh, and the sound of the wind in the trees and the calls of cockatoos and kookaburras carry across the valleys.
The area has a long history of timber getting, and the old logging tracks and abandoned mills in the forest are reminders of that era. Aboriginal people of the Dunghutti and Biripi nations have lived in the region for thousands of years, and their cultural sites and stories are an important part of the landscape. Take time to read the interpretive signs where they appear.
There are no major towns on this stretch, and services are limited to a few small stores and roadhouses. Fuel is available at Wauchope behind you and at Walcha ahead, so start with a full tank and keep an eye on your range. Carry water, snacks and a layer for the cooler air at height, and keep your phone charged, because coverage is patchy. The climb is a pleasure, and the reward is the view across the valleys from the high ground.