Water has been falling off this cliff for a very long time. The Cascades d'Ouzoud, in the foothills of the Middle Atlas east of Marrakech, plunge about a hundred metres in three tiers into a pool, surrounded by olive groves and red cliffs, and are among the tallest waterfalls in North Africa. On sunny days a rainbow forms in the spray, and the sound of the falls fills the whole gorge. The name is said to come from an Amazigh word for grinding, and old stone mills still line the stream above the falls.
A path winds down the side of the gorge, past small cafés, stalls and terraces with views, to the base, where small boats take visitors to the foot of the cascade. Barbary macaques live among the trees along the path and are not shy, so keep food out of sight and do not tease them. Swimming is possible in the pools below, though the water can be cold, and the paths can be slippery. Spring, after the winter rains and snowmelt, has the most water, while late summer shows a thinner flow.
The ride from Marrakech takes you across the dusty plain toward the foothills, with straight roads and olive orchards, then onto a quieter road that climbs through villages, terraced fields and low hills. The surface is generally good but narrows and deteriorates toward the end, and livestock, donkeys and children on the road need constant attention. It is a calm, rural ride, a contrast to the busy highways, and mornings give the best light and the least traffic.
There is no real town near the falls, only a small village of guesthouses and restaurants, so fill the tank before leaving the main road, in Marrakech or at a larger town on the way such as Demnate or Azilal, and carry some cash. The restaurants beside the falls serve tagine and grilled meat, and sitting on a terrace with a glass of mint tea and the falls in view is a very good way to spend an hour. Weekends and holidays are busy, so go on a weekday if you can, and take care with your footing on wet rock.