The Ourika Valley is where Marrakech goes to cool off. Less than an hour south of the city, the river of the same name runs down from the High Atlas through a narrow, green gorge, past terraces of barley, walnut trees and Berber villages whose red clay houses cling to the slopes. The valley is a favourite with day-trippers in summer, and the riverside cafés fill with families escaping the heat of the plain, with Toubkal, the highest peak in North Africa, hidden somewhere behind the ridges.
The road climbs gently along the river, with bends and good views, passing small settlements, craft stalls and a Monday market at the village of Tnine Ourika. It ends at Setti Fatma, a village at the head of the valley, where a trail leads up the stream to a series of seven waterfalls, climbed by rocks and wooden footbridges, with tea shops on the way. Further along, a side road climbs steeply to Oukaïmeden, a ski resort at about 2,600 metres, the highest in Africa, which gets snow in winter and has rock carvings thousands of years old in the area.
Take the valley seriously in bad weather. The river can rise in minutes after storms in the mountains, and a flash flood in 1995 caused many deaths, so check forecasts, and avoid camping or parking too close to the water in the wet season. The road itself is narrow in places, with traffic, tourist vehicles and pedestrians on the carriageway, so go slowly through the villages. Spring offers clear air and snow on the peaks, while autumn has gentle light and fewer visitors.
Setti Fatma has a few thousand people, and Oukaïmeden, a small ski station, also has little, so the sensible plan is to fill the tank in Marrakech, about thirty-five kilometres from the valley mouth, and carry water. Restaurants along the river serve grilled meat and tagine on tables set above the water, with the sound of the stream beneath, and mint tea is served by the glass. Weekends are the busiest time, so go on a weekday for a quieter run and a clearer road.