Oulu is the biggest city in northern Finland and sits where the Oulu River meets the Gulf of Bothnia, on land so flat that the horizon seems to go on without a bump. For centuries it was a tar port. Pine tar from the forests inland, vital for waterproofing wooden ships, was floated down the river and shipped out to Europe, and in the early nineteenth century Oulu was one of the world's largest tar exporters. When steam and steel replaced wood, the city turned to timber, then to technology, and today it is known for a big university and a strong electronics industry.
The city is a good one to wander. Cyclists are everywhere, even in winter, thanks to hundreds of kilometres of cycle paths, and there are river islands, parks and a lively market square with a handsome old market hall where you can get coffee and local pastries. A statue of a policeman, the Toripolliisi, stands on the square. The light is part of the character. In midsummer the sun barely sets, and the evenings glow a soft pink well after midnight, while in December the daylight shrinks to a few hours and the snow does the work of illuminating the streets.
For a rider, Oulu is more of a base than a destination, and the surrounding country is gentle rather than dramatic. Roads are long, straight and quiet, running through spruce, pine and bog, with wide skies and little traffic outside the city. Speed limits are low and enforced with cameras and patrols, so enjoy the scenery at the legal pace. Reindeer and elk can wander onto the road, particularly in the north and at dusk, so keep your speed down if you are riding in the evening. There are plenty of fuel stations in the city and in the neighbouring towns of Kempele and Oulunsalo, and cafés open early.
The riding season is short, from late May to early September, and weather swings from cool and drizzly to warm and bright within a day. Bring layers, and if you can, a mosquito-proof plan for any stop near water in July, since those insects have a fierce reputation. Salmon soup, a creamy local staple, is worth ordering when you stop to eat.