Ouarzazate is a town built where the High Atlas gives way to the desert, and the light there is so strong and clear that the film industry came to rely on it. It sits on a high plateau at the southern foot of the mountains, with the pale red earth and flat-topped hills of southern Morocco spreading out in front, and it has been the location for films such as Lawrence of Arabia, Gladiator and numerous others. Huge studio complexes on the edge of town offer visits, with sets of ancient Egypt and Tibet standing in the dust, but the real attraction lies in the kasbahs.
The Taourirt Kasbah, in the town itself, was the residence of the powerful Glaoui family, who ruled much of southern Morocco in the early twentieth century, and its mud-brick towers and intricately painted rooms give some idea of their wealth. About thirty kilometres away, the fortified village of Aït Benhaddou, a UNESCO site, rises on a hillside above a dry river, its towers and walls of clay glowing orange at sunset, and it is one of the best-preserved examples of southern Moroccan earthen architecture. Amazigh, or Berber, culture is strong here, and many people speak Tamazight as well as Arabic and French.
The famous ride is the road over the Tizi n'Tichka pass, which links Ouarzazate with Marrakech, about two hundred kilometres away. The pass crests at about 2,260 metres, and the road twists up the northern slope in long bends through villages of red mud houses, then drops down toward the dry south. The surface has been improved in recent years, but heavy trucks crawl up the climbs, and landslides or snow can close the road in winter. In summer it is hot in the lowlands and pleasantly cool at the top. Go early, since the light is best in the morning and the traffic is lighter.
Ouarzazate has fuel stations, workshops and plenty of hotels and cafés. In the evening, restaurants serve tagines and mint tea. Be aware of speed checks along the main road, which are common, and carry cash for small purchases. The best seasons are spring and autumn, with clear days and moderate temperatures, while July and August are very hot on the plains.