Oualidia is where the Atlantic stops being an ocean and becomes a lagoon. A natural sandbar and a line of rock shelter a calm, shallow bay, a few kilometres long, from the swells of the open sea, and the village, with about five and a half thousand people, sits along its shore, with small fishing boats pulled up on the sand and blue-painted houses facing the water. The tide moves in and out through narrow channels, and at low water the flats are covered with wading birds. The lagoon is protected as a wetland of international importance and is a winter home for flamingos, spoonbills and many others.
Oysters are the reason most visitors come. The clear, cold, nutrient-rich water is ideal for farming them, and Oualidia has become one of the best-known oyster places in Morocco, with farms on the lagoon and small restaurants and stalls selling them by the dozen, fresh from the water, with a squeeze of lemon. They are often eaten on a terrace beside the water, with a glass of Moroccan white wine or mint tea, and the quality is excellent. Fresh fish, prawns and sea urchins are also on offer.
For motorcyclists, the way here is the coast road, running north from Agadir through Essaouira and Safi, and the last stretch on the N1 and the coastal road passes cliffs, dunes and small ports, with the sea in view and the wind in your face. The land is dry and open, with scrub, argan trees in the south and fields of vegetables farther north. Safi, on the way, is the country's pottery capital, with kilns and workshops on the hill above the port, and it is worth a stop. Fog and wind from the Atlantic can be strong, and the temperature is cool even in summer.
Oualidia has fuel and basic services, so there is no need to worry about running dry here, though it is sensible to fill up in Safi or El Jadida if you can. Police and gendarmes use radar frequently on Moroccan roads, particularly at village entrances, so keep to the limits and carry your papers. Camels, goats and carts share the road in places, and the shoulder may be sandy or rough. The best season is spring or autumn, when the air is clear and the sun is warm. Evenings by the lagoon are lovely, with the light turning pink and gold, and the village quiet.