Let us be honest from the start: you will not ride a motorcycle on Ototojima. This small, uninhabited island lies in the Ogasawara archipelago, about a thousand kilometres south of Tokyo in the western Pacific, and it has no roads, no people and strict rules about who can land. What it does have is a remarkable natural world. The Ogasawara Islands, also known as the Bonin Islands, have never been connected to a continent, and their plants and animals evolved in isolation, producing many species found nowhere else. The archipelago was listed by UNESCO in 2011, and Ototojima is one of its most precious parts.
The island is home to rare endemic land snails, dragonflies and plants, and its streams are among the few places where certain freshwater species survive. Introduced animals such as goats and rats have caused great damage across the islands, and much effort has gone into removing them and protecting the native species. Visitors to Ototojima must be accompanied by licensed guides and follow strict procedures, including cleaning shoes and equipment to avoid bringing in seeds or pests.
Getting to the Ogasawaras is an adventure in itself. There is no airport, and the only regular connection is a ferry from Tokyo, which takes around a day each way and runs roughly once a week. The voyage across the open Pacific is long, but the arrival at Chichijima, the main island, with its turquoise bays and green hills, is unforgettable. From there, boat tours visit the surrounding islands, including Ototojima, and the waters are famous for dolphins, whales and sea turtles.
On Chichijima, you can rent scooters to explore the island's small network of roads, which wind over the hills between beaches and viewpoints. It is a gentle, delightful way to get around, with little traffic and wonderful views of the sea. The island has shops, restaurants and accommodation, but everything is limited, and prices reflect the distance from the mainland.
The climate is subtropical, warm all year, with typhoons possible in summer and autumn. The best time for whale watching is in winter and spring. Plan carefully, book ahead, and be prepared for the ferry schedule to dictate your stay. It is a long way to go, but there are few places like it on earth.