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Otorizuka Kofun

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Otorizuka is a small mound, and its name, which seems to mean the bird mound, is lovely. What I do know is the setting: a plain south-east of Osaka that holds one of the greatest concentrations of burial mounds in the world, in the Furuichi group, and a small mound like this is part of the supporting cast, a tomb for a person of lower rank who wished to lie near a king.

The reason small mounds matter is that they show who was buried near whom. The large keyhole tombs, built for rulers in the fifth century, were surrounded by smaller round or square mounds, perhaps for relatives, officials or servants, arranged around them like a court. Their sizes and shapes reveal a ranking in death, and archaeologists have excavated some of them and found weapons, tools and armour, together with, in some cases, the remains of horses. Otorizuka, a smaller grassy hill near houses and fields, belongs in that picture.

Visiting is easy and a little odd. A sign by the path tells you its name, and you can stand beside it, perhaps with a child cycling past on the way home from school. The mound is covered with pine, bamboo and shrubs, and in spring and early summer the air is full of the smell of cut grass and the sound of cicadas. Because it is small, you can walk around it in minutes, and the surrounding neighbourhood, with its vegetable plots and small shrines, makes the walk more interesting.

For riding, the area around Kashihara, with its flat roads and rural lanes, is pleasant, but the traffic can be dense at rush hour, and some roads are very narrow. Keep to the speed limits, which are strictly enforced. Fuel stations and convenience stores are everywhere, and Matsubara, the larger city to the north-east, has plenty of services. Aim for spring or autumn, when the air is clear and the plain looks its best, and bring a spare hour for the nearby mounds.

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