The Otira Gorge is the steep western descent from Arthur's Pass, a short, dramatic drop where the road leaves the pass and plunges down a narrow, rocky valley with walls of broken stone on either side. The Otira River tumbles beside the road, cold, grey and loud. The cliffs are shaped by frost and rain, and rockfalls come down in storms. Waterfalls hang from the crags, and the bush grows dark and thick below. At the top of the gorge, the road crosses a long viaduct, built in 2017 to replace a section that kept slipping, and the structure is bold and modern against the wild background.
For a rider, the gorge is the real deal. The road falls steeply, with tight bends, a narrow carriageway and a heavy flow of trucks and tour coaches, and you need to concentrate. Use engine braking, keep to your side of the road and take the corners wide and slow. The surface can be wet or covered in debris, and the drop is a long one. In rain and cloud, visibility is poor, and the road can close for slips and snow, so check before you go. The ride up from the west is easier on the nerves, with a longer view and a satisfying climb.
At the foot of the gorge lies the village of Otira, a former railway town that once housed workers on the great tunnel, and now holds a handful of homes and a historic hotel. West Coast rain is legendary, and Otira receives huge amounts of it, with several metres a year. The result is lush, mossy rainforest and rivers that rise fast after storms. Sandflies are part of the picture, and you may be glad of repellent when you stop. The old coach road, a rough track, can be seen in places beside the new road.
Arthur's Pass village has limited services, and the real options are Springfield on the east or Kumara and Hokitika on the west, so start with a full tank. A short stop at a lookout near the top gives a fine view of the upper gorge and the viaduct. Wear waterproofs, and ride in the morning if you can, when traffic is lighter, and the weather is often clearer.