Eight ponds of astonishingly clear water lie in the village of Oshino, at the northern foot of Mount Fuji, and the water in them is snowmelt from the mountain, filtered for many years through layers of volcanic rock before welling up here. The Oshino Hakkai, the eight seas of Oshino, were once part of a lake that dried up, and they became places of pilgrimage for people climbing Fuji, who purified themselves in the springs before their ascent. They are included in UNESCO's inscription of Fujisan as a place of worship and source of artistic inspiration.
The village is pretty, with thatched-roof houses, water wheels and small shops selling soba noodles, tofu and grilled fish. On a clear day, Fuji rises behind, perfectly reflected in the ponds, and the water is so clear that you can see every pebble and fish on the bottom. It can be crowded with tour groups, especially at weekends, so come early or late. Nearby, Fujiyoshida is the traditional starting point for the climb, with the Kitaguchi Hongu Fuji Sengen shrine among giant cedars, and the Chureito pagoda, framed by cherry blossoms in spring, is one of the most famous views in Japan.
The riding around Fuji is excellent. The roads around the Fuji Five Lakes, such as Kawaguchi and Yamanaka, are scenic and well-maintained, with views of the mountain at every turn. The Fuji Subaru Line, a toll road, climbs to the fifth station on the northern slope, at about two thousand three hundred metres, and is open to motorcycles outside the busiest periods. Traffic can be heavy on weekends and holidays, and the weather changes quickly, with cloud often hiding the mountain. Winter brings snow and ice, and some roads close.
Fujiyoshida has fuel, shops and restaurants. Local food includes Yoshida udon, thick and chewy noodles, and hoto, a hearty noodle soup with pumpkin and vegetables. Japanese convenience stores are a rider's friend, with good coffee, snacks and clean toilets. Remember that Japan drives on the left. At Oshino Hakkai, walk around the ponds slowly, look into the deep blue of the largest one, and drink a cup of the spring water from a public fountain; it is cold, clean and tastes faintly of stone.