Oruro would never win a beauty contest, and its people would be the first to grin about it, but it holds one of the best parties in South America. This is a mining city on the high Bolivian plain, at about 3,700 metres, cold in the evenings and dry the rest of the time, built on tin and silver and still marked by the headframes and slag heaps that gave it money for a century. The nearest settlement of note is the city itself; beyond it the plain runs flat toward the old lake basin of Poopó.
Every year before Lent the city turns into a carnival that UNESCO recognised as a masterpiece of the intangible heritage of humanity. Thousands of dancers in elaborate costumes and enormous masks perform the Diablada, the dance of the devils, up the streets to the Sanctuary of the Virgen del Socavón, the Virgin of the Mineshaft, who is the patron of the miners. The story behind it blends Andean beliefs about the underworld with Catholic saints, and the result is more heartfelt than any parade you have seen. If your dates are flexible, plan for it, though book rooms months ahead and expect closed roads.
For a rider, Oruro is the hinge between La Paz and the south. The highway from La Paz arrives fast and flat across the plateau, and the road south toward Uyuni runs on over the altiplano through Challapata and past the Salar. Between towns there is room, a lot of wind, and almost nothing else, so the day goes in long, quiet pulls with snow-capped volcanoes drifting in and out of view. Mid-morning is best for light and warmth. Afternoons can bring dust and a crosswind that makes the bike lean.
This is a proper city, so fuel, mechanics, and hot food are easy to find, and it is the right place to top up everything before the empty miles to the south. Try the local market stalls for a bowl of thick soup and fried chicken, or the rostro asado, a pig's head dish that locals swear by if you are brave. Keep an eye on your gear in the busy streets, as in any large town, and check the weather forecast for your next leg before committing to a long day.