Orosei is a small old town on the Cedrino river, a short way inland from the long beaches of Sardinia's east coast, and it is one of those places that sits in the middle of a big story without making a fuss about it. Behind it, the white limestone mountains of the Supramonte rise, a wild and almost unvisited country of canyons and caves, and to the south the coast runs on toward the Gulf of Orosei, where cliffs and hidden beaches are reached by boat. The town was once a significant port and a seat of Spanish rule, and it still has a cluster of churches, an old watchtower and a medieval centre with some fine stone houses. It is known for its churches, of which there are many, and a few of them are very old.
The countryside is one of citrus orchards, irrigated fields and vineyards along the river plain, framed by the mountains, and the beach, a long sweep of sand backed by pines and dunes, is a short ride away. The marble quarried nearby, a pale stone sometimes compared with that of Carrara, has been used in buildings across the island. A little further, the great canyons and caves of the Supramonte and the beaches of Cala Gonone make good day trips for those with time.
For motorcyclists, Orosei lies on the SS125, the Orientale Sarda, one of the best-known roads in Sardinia, which runs the length of the east coast. Here it is a fast, open stretch with long bends and views of the mountains. To the south it climbs through the hills toward Dorgali, with a series of tunnels and ridge-top views over the sea, and the surface is generally good. In summer, the road is busy, with holiday traffic and heavy lorries, and the heat can be fierce on the plain. Spring and autumn are the best seasons, with cooler air and clear light. Mountain roads inland are narrow and slow, with goats, cattle and sudden changes of surface.
The town has the services you need. There are fuel stations on the main road, supermarkets, restaurants and cafes, and small hotels and guesthouses. Local food leans toward the traditional, with roast suckling pig, handmade pasta called malloreddus and the wafer-thin carasau bread of the island, and the local cheeses are excellent. A glass of the red Cannonau wine, made from the local Grenache variety, is good with all of it.
The town is at its best in the early evening, when the sun lights the old stone and the mountains turn violet.