Orford is a small seaside town on the east coast of Tasmania, at the mouth of the Prosser River, and it has the easygoing feel of a place that has always been a bit off the main road. The river runs through a pretty valley and into a sheltered bay, where fishing boats and kayaks bob in the water and walkers follow a path along the bank. Across the water lies Maria Island, a national park with no cars, where wombats, Forester kangaroos and Tasmanian devils roam among ruins of a convict settlement and a short-lived cement works.
The ferry to Maria Island leaves from nearby Triabunna, about ten kilometres up the coast, and the island is a rewarding day trip if you are not in a hurry. The Tasman Highway, which runs between Hobart and the east coast, passes through Orford, and this stretch is the heart of what people call the Great Eastern Drive. The scenery is wild and beautiful, with blue sea, rocky headlands and farmland rolling away to the hills.
For a rider, the road is mostly relaxed, with long, curving sections and good views, and it is quiet outside of holidays. The road towards Swansea passes the Spiky Bridge, a convict-built stone bridge with a curious row of upright stones along its parapet, and there are lookouts and beaches along the way. Weather can change quickly, with cold southerly winds and sudden showers, so carry a rain jacket even on sunny days. Wildlife is an issue, with wallabies, wombats and pademelons on the road at dawn and dusk.
Fuel can be an issue. Orford is small, and while Triabunna normally has a fuel station, the sensible plan is to fill the tank at Sorell, the nearest larger town, before heading east, and to check opening hours elsewhere. Food is available in Orford, with a bakery or cafe usually open, and fish and chips are the standard fare. Take time to walk along the river, and watch the light change over the bay.