Omeo sits at the end of a long, empty road in the high country of Victoria, and for a long time it was a place people passed through on their way to somewhere else. In the 1850s, that somewhere else was gold. Prospectors poured in, and for a while Omeo was a rough, bustling frontier town, with a reputation for lawlessness that earned it the nickname of the Wild West of Victoria. Then the gold ran out, and the town settled into a quieter life as a service centre for cattle farmers and, later, for skiers heading for the mountains.
The land around is rolling grazing country with the Alps rising behind, and the town sits in a valley at about six hundred metres. A serious earthquake in 1885 damaged many buildings, and the rebuilding gave the main street its present, solid look. A few old buildings survive, including the courthouse, and a small museum tells the story of the goldfields. Snow gums, granite boulders and wide skies set the tone.
For riders, Omeo is a milestone on the Great Alpine Road, which runs from Wangaratta to Bairnsdale over the highest sealed road in Victoria. The section south from Omeo, through Cassilis and down to the coast, is a long, twisting descent through eucalyptus forest, while to the north, the road climbs through Dinner Plain to Mount Hotham, at around 1,800 metres, with long sweeping views, wide bends and a surface that is generally good. In winter, snow and ice are serious, and chains may be required, so late spring to autumn is the best time. In summer, bushfire can close roads, so check conditions before you leave.
There is fuel in Omeo, and a few cafes, a pub and a bakery, but hours are limited, especially out of season. Dinner Plain, about thirty kilometres up the road, has fewer services. Take a warm layer, as the high country can be cold even in January.