At the end of a day in the mountains, the Tama valley delivers you back to Ōme like a conveyor belt. For a rider coming down from Okutama, it is the place where the road widens, the traffic thickens and the first petrol stations appear, a signal that the mountains are done for the day. Fuel here is no problem, with stations on every main road, and Fussa and Hannō are close.
Before you reach town, the valley has some good things to stop for. Mitake, a gorge of the Tama river, offers canoeing, riverside walks and small restaurants with terraces over the water. Mount Mitake, which rises above, has a shrine reached by cable car where wolves were once worshipped as protectors of the harvest, and wolf talismans are still sold. In Sawai, a famous sake brewery draws its water from the mountains, and visitors can taste the product in a beautiful setting.
In Ōme itself, the old centre keeps hand-painted film billboards and a museum devoted to retro culture, a charming reminder of the days when the town was a weaving centre. Ōme was also on the old route that carried lime to Edo. The streets are quiet on weekday evenings, and a short walk with a cup of coffee suits the end of a long ride. If you are in the mood, a bowl of hearty noodles in a little family restaurant completes the day.
The way back to central Tokyo is the main challenge. Route 16 and the Ōme Kaidō fill with returning traffic on Sunday afternoons, and tailbacks are common. If you can, leave the mountains early or stay for a late dinner and ride when the roads have emptied. The Chūō expressway offers a quicker way back, though it also jams. Keep your concentration up, as tired riders are most at risk in the last few kilometres, and enjoy the warm lights as you return to the city.