The crossing to Olkhon takes only a quarter of an hour or so, but the wait can stretch to several hours on a July weekend, when cars, minibuses and motorcycles queue along the road down to the landing. The strait here, known as the Olkhon Gate, is narrow, a couple of kilometres across, but deep and sometimes rough, and the small ferries that shuttle back and forth are a lifeline for the island. In winter, when the lake freezes, an ice road replaces them, and in the uncertain weeks of freeze-up and thaw, hovercraft take over.
Standing on the deck, you get one of the best views on the lake. To the north stretches the Maloye More, the Little Sea, between the island and the mainland, with bare hills and steppe on both sides. To the south, the main body of Baikal opens up, vast and blue, with mountains on the far shore. The island ahead looks dry and brown, with rocky headlands and patches of forest, and the air smells of water and wild thyme. Gulls follow the ferry, and on calm days the water is so clear you can see deep into it.
The ride to the ferry comes after a long road from Irkutsk through forest and the Tazheran steppe, the final stretch descending to the shore with views of the strait. On the island side, the road to Khuzhir, the main village, is unpaved, sandy and rutted, with long washboard sections that are tough on bikes and riders. Lower tyre pressures, a steady speed and plenty of patience help. Dust can be a serious problem in dry weather, so keep a distance from the vehicle ahead.
Services around the ferry landing are limited to cafes and small shops, with fuel back in Yelantsy, about thirty kilometres away. On the island, fuel can be scarce, so arrive with a full tank and extra if you plan to explore. Check the ferry schedule before setting out, especially in shoulder seasons, when crossings can be cancelled due to wind or ice. Then sit back, enjoy the crossing, and watch Olkhon come closer; there is something special about arriving on an island by water.