The first thing to do in Regensburg is to cross the Stone Bridge on foot. It dates from the twelfth century and, for a long time, was the only fixed crossing of the Danube for hundreds of kilometres, which is why the city grew rich on trade. Merchants, crusaders and pilgrims passed over it, and the arches still carry the tourist traffic. At the far end lies Stadtamhof, an island of narrow streets and low houses between two river channels, which was once a separate town and still feels slightly apart. UNESCO listed the old town and Stadtamhof in 2006, and the city has one of the largest medieval centres in Germany.
The other face of Regensburg is imperial. From 1663 until 1806 the Perpetual Imperial Diet, the parliament of the Holy Roman Empire, met here, and the old town hall still shows the chambers. The cathedral of St Peter, in Gothic style with twin spires, anchors the skyline, and inside there is some remarkable stained glass. Around it the streets are lined with patrician towers, built by merchant families as status symbols, and a few survive at full height. Roman walls remain in the foundations, since this was the camp of the Third Italic Legion.
For a rider, the town is for walking, not riding. The centre is a maze of one-way streets and pedestrian zones, so park at the edge, perhaps near the river on the north side, and walk in. With one hundred and thirty thousand inhabitants, fuel and workshops are easy to find on the outskirts. The approach roads from the north, through the hills of the Bavarian Forest foothills, are the better riding, with climbs and long curves. The Danube valley road upstream to Kelheim and the Danube gorge at Weltenburg is a good half-day excursion and a quiet one on weekdays.
Eat on the river, near the bridge, where you can watch the water move. The local sausages with sweet mustard and sauerkraut are the classic order. Early morning, before the tour groups arrive, gives you almost empty streets and warm light on the pale stone. In winter, the Christmas markets fill the squares, but the cold and the cobbles make the bike a bad idea.