There is a kind of satisfaction in a city that is exactly what its postcards say, and Ávila is one. The walls are intact, golden at sunset, and the cathedral is built right into them, its apse forming one of the fortress towers, which gives the whole thing the look of a church that has chosen to defend itself. The old town and its churches outside the walls, the extra muros, were recognised by UNESCO in 1985, and most of what makes it special can be seen in a morning.
That morning should include the walk on top of the wall, which is open for much of the length of the eastern side, and a loop around the outside, where the stones seem to change colour with the light. Then add the churches beyond the walls, including the great Romanesque basilica of San Vicente, which holds the tomb of the martyrs it is named for, and the convent where Teresa of Ávila founded the first of her reformed Carmelite houses in 1562.
The surrounding country is just as interesting for a rider. To the south the Sierra de Gredos rises, with high passes and hairpins; to the north and west, the plateau offers long, fast roads through cereal fields, oak and granite boulders. The climate is harsh and dry, with cold winters and hot afternoons in summer, so layering is useful. Spring brings green fields and poppies, while autumn has the clearest air.
Town services are good, with fuel on the ring road and a wide choice of eating places, though many of the good ones inside the walls are small. Eat the local beef and finish with yemas or a cup of hot chocolate. Wind is a constant companion on the plateau, so a good visor and a bit of patience are better than speed.