Few square kilometres on earth carry as much weight as these. The Old City of Jerusalem holds sites sacred to Judaism, Christianity and Islam, packed into a maze of stone lanes inside walls built by the Ottoman sultan Suleiman the Magnificent in the 1530s. The Western Wall, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the Dome of the Rock and the al-Aqsa Mosque lie within a few minutes' walk of each other, and the city's four traditional quarters, Jewish, Christian, Muslim and Armenian, each have their own character, markets and rhythms. The Old City and its walls were added to the UNESCO list in 1981.
Walking the walls is one of the best ways to understand the city: a rampart path runs along much of the circuit, with views into courtyards, rooftops and domes on one side and the modern city on the other. The gates, from Jaffa Gate to Damascus Gate and the Lions' Gate, each have their own story and atmosphere. Inside, the alleys are full of shops, spice stalls, bakeries and pilgrims from every corner of the world.
This is not a place to ride into. The Old City is pedestrian, with steep stone steps and narrow lanes, and the streets around it are congested, with heavy traffic, buses, taxis and limited parking. Leave the bike in a secure car park outside the walls and explore on foot. Riding to Jerusalem from the coast or the Dead Sea is spectacular, though: the road from the Dead Sea climbs more than a thousand metres through the Judean desert, a dramatic ascent through bare hills and canyons.
Fuel, food and lodging are everywhere in the city. Food is a highlight: hummus in small family restaurants, fresh falafel, sesame bread rings called ka'ak, knafeh soaked in syrup, and fresh juice squeezed in front of you. Dress modestly when visiting religious sites, and be aware of prayer times, holidays and closures.
Jerusalem is a city of strong emotions and real tensions, and security conditions can change quickly. Check current advice before visiting, follow local guidance and be respectful of the many communities who live and worship here. Come early in the morning, when the light is golden on the stone and the lanes are quiet, and listen to the bells and calls to prayer echoing over the rooftops.