The Grand Canal of China is the longest man-made waterway in the world, and for centuries it carried the grain, silk and taxes of the south to the capital in the north. The Tonghui section, built in 1292 by the engineer Guo Shoujing under the Yuan dynasty, brought water from springs in the hills to the north-west of Beijing and gave the canal its final link to the city, running from the capital to Tongzhou, where barges unloaded. The old Beijing section follows the line of the river through the city, passing lakes, bridges and old neighbourhoods, and it forms part of the UNESCO listing of the Grand Canal, listed in 2014.
The same water explains two of the great sights of the ride. The Summer Palace, in the north-west, is a vast imperial garden of lakes, hills and pavilions, centred on Kunming Lake and Longevity Hill. It was rebuilt in the 1880s by the Empress Dowager Cixi, and a long covered corridor, painted with thousands of scenes, runs along the shore. The Temple of Heaven, in the south of the city, is where the emperors made offerings for good harvests, and its circular Hall of Prayer, with a triple blue roof and no nails in its structure, is one of the most recognisable buildings in China. Both are parks as much as monuments, filled in the mornings with elderly people doing tai chi, playing cards and singing.
The Beijing waterways are best seen on foot or by bicycle. The lakes of Shichahai, around which old courtyard houses and lanes called hutongs cluster, are lively in the evening, with bars and cafes, and the water in winter is covered with skaters. The canal has been restored in parts, with paths along the banks.
Riding a motorbike in Beijing is, for foreign visitors, effectively impossible, since licences, plates and restrictions make it difficult, so plan on the subway and taxis. Fuel and services are everywhere in the city, and the local food is wonderful, from Peking duck to dumplings and hot pot. The best seasons are spring and autumn, and the summer is hot, wet and busy.