On a ridge above the Hwang river in Hapcheon County, a row of grassy mounds rises against the sky, each one the burial of a ruler or noble of Dara, one of the small kingdoms of the Gaya confederacy that flourished in the south of the Korean peninsula between the first and sixth centuries. Gaya was famous for its iron, traded across the region and to Japan, and its tombs held armour, weapons, horse gear, pottery and gold ornaments. The Okjeon tumuli are one of seven groups listed together by UNESCO in 2023 as the Gaya Tumuli.
The mounds are simple and serene, set among trees and grass with paths running between them, and a small museum nearby displays finds from the excavations, including crowns, helmets and pottery. Walking among the tombs, especially in the early morning or late afternoon, has a quiet, contemplative feel, with views over the river valley and the hills of Gyeongsangnam-do.
Hapcheon County is also home to Haeinsa, one of the most important Buddhist temples in Korea, on the slopes of Gayasan mountain. The temple houses the Tripitaka Koreana, more than eighty thousand wooden printing blocks carved in the thirteenth century, stored in buildings designed with remarkable ventilation; temple and halls are both UNESCO-listed. Hwangmaesan, another mountain in the county, is famous for its pink azalea blossom in spring.
The riding in this area is excellent. Roads wind through river valleys and over wooded hills, with good surfaces, light traffic and plenty of curves. The roads around Hapcheon Lake and up toward Haeinsa are particularly scenic. Korean traffic drives on the right, and drivers can be assertive, so stay alert, especially in towns and on main roads. Speed cameras are common.
Fuel is available in Hapcheon town and larger villages, and Changnyeong, about twenty kilometres away, is a bigger town with full services. Korean food is a highlight: bibimbap, grilled meats, spicy stews and endless small side dishes. Temple food at Haeinsa is simple and vegetarian. Come in spring for blossoms, or autumn for brilliant foliage and clear skies. Summers are hot and humid, with a monsoon season in July. The ridge is a lovely place to sit for a while with a can of cold coffee from the last convenience store, the mounds rising like soft green waves beside you.