Okaukuejo is the oldest of the rest camps in Etosha National Park, and its waterhole is the best reason to go there. The camp lies on the southern edge of the great Etosha Pan, a vast salt flat that glitters white in the dry season and holds shallow water in the wet, and the name of the park means great white place. A fort, built in 1901 by German troops, now serves as a museum and tower, and from the top, you can look across the plains and the pan, a view that is simply huge.
At dusk, the waterhole in front of the camp is floodlit, and animals come to drink in the dark. Black rhinos are a regular sight, appearing as grey shapes at the edge of the light, and elephants, lions, giraffes and hyenas arrive in turn, while jackals and owls slip around the edges. Visitors sit on benches in silence and watch the performance, which can last for hours, and the encounter has a quiet, primeval feel. It is among the most reliable places in Africa to see black rhino.
Think carefully about the practical side before planning a ride here. Etosha has strict rules, with speed limits, closing times for gates, no leaving vehicles in the open, and rules about motorcycles that are generally restrictive, so check with the park authorities whether a bike is admitted before you travel. Entry fees apply, and bookings for camps are usually essential well in advance. The roads on the approach are a mix of tarmac and gravel, with livestock and wildlife crossing, and heat is considerable for most of the year.
The camp has a fuel station, a shop, a restaurant and a swimming pool, which is a great relief after a dusty day, and it is the most convenient place to refuel in the western part of the park. Outside the park, the nearest towns are some distance away, so plan your supplies, and bring plenty of water. The best time for game viewing is the dry season, from about May to October, when animals gather at waterholes, while the green season brings birds and flowers but also heat and thunderstorms.