At sunset, the Topatopa Mountains above the Ojai Valley glow pink for a few minutes, a phenomenon locals call the pink moment, and people pause in the streets to watch. It is that kind of town: small, artsy, a little spiritual and very proud of its valley, tucked into the mountains about an hour and a half north-west of Los Angeles. The philosopher Jiddu Krishnamurti lived and taught here for decades, and the town still attracts seekers, artists and people looking for a slower pace of life.
The valley is lined with citrus orchards, especially the small, sweet Pixie tangerines for which Ojai is known, and the smell of orange blossom in spring is intoxicating. The town centre has a Spanish-style arcade, a few blocks of independent shops, galleries and restaurants, and a famous outdoor bookstore. In 2017, the Thomas Fire burned through the hills around the valley, coming close to the town, and you can still see the scars in places.
For riders, Ojai's main attraction is Highway 33, which heads north from the town through the Los Padres National Forest. The road climbs through Wheeler Gorge, with short tunnels, and continues over the mountains, with tight bends, huge views and very little traffic, before descending to the Cuyama Valley. It is one of the best motorcycle roads in Southern California, though it demands concentration, with rockfall, gravel and occasional deer. Highway 150, which runs east to Santa Paula and west to Lake Casitas, is another good road, winding through orchards and hills.
Ojai has fuel and plenty of restaurants and cafés, and it is a lovely place for lunch. Fuel becomes scarce once you head north on Highway 33, with long stretches through the mountains without services, so fill up in town. Summers are hot and dry, with high fire danger, and winters are mild. Spring, with the hills green and the orange blossom out, is the best season.