Lake Ohrid is one of the oldest lakes in Europe, perhaps two or three million years old, and it has a character that sets it apart. It lies on the border between North Macedonia and Albania, a deep, clear body of water about thirty kilometres long, ringed by mountains, and it is home to more than two hundred species found nowhere else, including the Ohrid trout and a number of tiny snails and crustaceans. UNESCO listed the lake and the town in 1979 and 1980, for both natural and cultural reasons.
The town of Ohrid, with fifty-five thousand people, climbs a hill above the water, a tumble of red roofs, old houses and cobbled lanes. Samuel's Fortress crowns the top, a medieval castle with long walls and views across the lake, and below, on a rocky point over the water, stands the little church of St John at Kaneo, thirteenth century, one of the most photographed in the Balkans. It was here, in the ninth century, that the disciples of Saints Cyril and Methodius, including Clement, taught Slavic literacy, spreading the Cyrillic alphabet, and Ohrid was once said to have had three hundred and sixty-five churches, one for each day of the year.
The ride goes south around the lake, past Sveti Naum monastery, near the Albanian border, where springs bubble up at the foot of a cliff and peacocks wander in the courtyard. Beyond is the crossing into Albania, where the road continues along the shore. The roads are generally good, with gentle curves, views of the water and the mountains of Galicica National Park rising on one side. In summer, the lake is warm enough for swimming, and the beaches are crowded. Spring and early autumn are calmer. Winds can pick up in the afternoon.
Ohrid has fuel stations on the main roads, shops and many restaurants, so fill up before the border. Try the Ohrid trout, a protected species, so it is not always on the menu, and look for the cultured pearls made by a local workshop with a secret method. Allow time for the border crossing, and carry the vehicle papers and insurance. The old town is best on foot, early in the morning, when the light on the water is soft.