Ohlange sits in the hills of Inanda, north-west of Durban, and in the history of South Africa it carries weight far beyond its modest appearance. This is the site of the Ohlange Institute, founded in 1901 by John Langalibalele Dube, a Zulu educator, newspaper publisher and activist who went on to become the first president of the South African Native National Congress, later the African National Congress. Dube built a school here that taught practical skills alongside academic subjects, on the model of Tuskegee in the United States, and it became a center of African education and political thought.
His grave lies on a hill nearby, and the site has been preserved as a memorial. Ohlange also has a powerful place in the story of democracy. In April 1994, Nelson Mandela cast his vote here in the first multiracial election in South African history, choosing to vote at the school rather than in a city polling station as a way of honoring Dube. A small museum and the simple school buildings tell the story, and the atmosphere is quiet and respectful.
The surrounding area is Inanda, a large, hilly district with a mix of formal and informal housing, and it was also the home of Mahatma Gandhi's Phoenix Settlement, which he founded in 1904 on the nearby land. The two sites are close, and visiting both gives a picture of the intertwined struggles for justice in the early twentieth century. The Phoenix Settlement was damaged during unrest in 1985, and it has since been partly restored as a museum.
For a rider, the ride from Durban is a short run through busy suburbs and then into the green hills, on roads that can be potholed and crowded with minibus taxis. Local knowledge is helpful, and it is wise to go with someone who knows the way, or with a guide arranged through a heritage organization. Avoid riding after dark, keep belongings out of sight when stopped, and check the current situation before going.
Fuel and food are best handled in central Durban or in the larger suburbs, where there are stations and plenty of places to eat. Consider making the visit in the morning, when the light is soft over the hills and the school is at its liveliest.