Oaxaca sits in a high valley in southern Mexico, at about 1,500 metres, with mountains on every side and an old city at its centre that feels more like a village in its pace. The Zapotec and Mixtec peoples have lived in this region for thousands of years, and their influence is still strong, with a number of indigenous languages spoken and local crafts such as woven rugs, black clay pottery and carved wooden animals sold in the markets. The Spanish added churches and convents, and the cathedral and Santo Domingo, with its gilded interior, are among the finest in the country.
Food is the great draw. Oaxaca is known as the land of seven moles, rich sauces made with chilli, chocolate, nuts and spices, and of tlayudas, huge crisp tortillas piled with beans, cheese and meat. Chapulines, roasted grasshoppers seasoned with lime and chilli, are a snack you will see in every market. Mezcal, the smoky agave spirit, is made in the villages around the valley, and tasting rooms in town let you sample the different kinds.
For riders, the city is a base for day trips into the valleys. The ride east toward Yagul and Mitla follows the highway through farming country, with agave fields, small towns and stalls selling mezcal and cheese. Mitla is known for its stone mosaic fretwork, and Yagul, on a hilltop, has a ball court and a view across the valley. Nearby there are caves with some of the oldest evidence of agriculture in the Americas. The roads are mostly paved and in decent shape, but potholes, speed bumps and livestock are common, and it is wise to avoid riding after dark.
Oaxaca city has fuel and every sort of service, and the villages along the main roads have stations too. In the mountains beyond, the road to the coast is long and twisting, with limited services, so fill the tank and check conditions before setting out.
The best season is the dry months, from roughly October to May. During the rainy season, afternoons bring storms and the roads can be slick. Early evening in the zócalo, with music, balloons and a table at an open cafe, is a good way to end a day.