Nyungwe is one of the oldest rainforests in Africa and one of the wettest, a block of mountain forest in the south-west of Rwanda that survived the ice ages when so much of the continent dried out. It holds around a thousand square kilometres of dense growth on steep ridges between about 1,600 and 3,000 metres, and it shelters thirteen species of primate, including chimpanzees, L'Hoest's monkeys and large troops of black-and-white Angolan colobus that move through the canopy in loud, tumbling groups. Birdlife is exceptional, with over three hundred species, many found only in the Albertine Rift. Some of the headwaters of the Nile are said to start in its streams.
The road across the forest, which links Huye in the east with Rusizi on Lake Kivu in the west, is one of the best rides in Rwanda. Tarmac is smooth and the road climbs through tea plantations and then into the trees, with long, easy bends, deep green walls on either side, mist drifting across the carriageway and the occasional colobus family crossing. Rain can come at any time, even in the dry season, and cloud can reduce visibility to a few metres, so slow down and use your lights. Temperatures at altitude are cool, and a waterproof layer is essential. Baboons sit by the road at points, and they have learned to grab food from riders, so keep snacks out of sight.
Walking in the forest is arranged through park offices, with guides and fees, and the canopy walkway, a suspension bridge some forty metres above the forest floor, offers a view of the treetops that most visitors do not forget. Chimpanzee tracking begins before dawn and can involve a long, steep and muddy scramble, so plan it carefully.
Small guesthouses near Gisakura, beside a tea estate on the edge of the forest, offer rooms and meals, and the tea itself is excellent.
The drier months, from June to September and from December to February, are the best for walking and riding, though the forest earns its reputation at any time of year.