Nyungwe is the largest surviving block of montane rainforest in East and Central Africa, and the road that crosses it, running from Rusizi on Lake Kivu toward Huye, is one of the most atmospheric rides in the continent. The forest covers about a thousand square kilometres of steep hills, and it is very old, having survived the ice ages when other forests shrank, which is why it holds such an abundance of life. There are thirteen species of primates here, including chimpanzees and large troops of Angolan colobus monkeys, which often sit by the road, and more than three hundred species of birds.
The ride is cold, wet and wonderful. The road climbs from the lakeshore through tea plantations at Gisakura into thick forest, where the trees close overhead and the mist drifts across the tarmac. Elevations reach almost two thousand five hundred metres, and the temperature drops by many degrees, so waterproofs and warm layers are essential. The bends are tight and often hidden in fog, and heavy trucks grind along the grade with little care for bikes. Ride slowly, use your lights and keep clear of the roadside, where monkeys sometimes sit and troops cross.
Walk if you can. The canopy walkway, a suspension bridge strung about fifty metres above the forest floor, offers a view from the tree tops, and trails lead through tree ferns, giant lobelias and orchids to waterfalls. Chimpanzee tracking is possible but needs an early start and a permit, so arrange it in advance. The park is also regarded as one of the possible sources of the Nile, as streams here feed rivers that eventually flow to both the Congo and the Nile basins.
The dry months of June to August and December to February are the best for visiting, though the forest is never really dry. Stay overnight if you can. The dawn chorus of birds and the sound of rain on the leaves are worth the early alarm.