Nyon is a small Swiss town on the north shore of Lake Geneva, and it carries a surprising amount of history in a very pleasant setting. The old town rises from the lakeside in a tumble of tiled roofs, with a castle of round towers at the top and a promenade along the water at the bottom. Behind it, the vineyards of La Côte slope up toward the Jura, and in front of it the lake stretches across to the French shore and the snowy Alps beyond.
The Romans founded a colony here, Colonia Iulia Equestris, around 45 BC under Julius Caesar, and fragments of columns and a small museum on the site of the old basilica preserve the memory. Centuries later, in the late eighteenth century, the town became known for its fine porcelain, delicate white pieces painted with flowers. Today it is home to the Paléo Festival, one of Europe's largest open-air music events, which takes over the fields on the edge of town for a week each July.
For a rider, Nyon is a convenient and pleasant place to rest. The town has fuel, shops, cafes, and restaurants, and the lakeside is perfect for a coffee or a long lunch. The lake road along the shore is busy and slow, with traffic lights, roundabouts, and speed cameras, and Swiss speed limits are enforced strictly, so keep your eyes open. The higher road through the vineyards is more rewarding, with gentle bends and wide views. Geneva is about twenty-five kilometres to the south-west, and the Jura is the obvious destination for the afternoon.
Food and drink are part of the charm. The local white wine, made from the Chasselas grape, is light and crisp, and it goes well with perch fillets from the lake, a Swiss favourite. A walk along the promenade is a good way to loosen up after a long ride. The lake has a mild climate, and in spring and autumn the light is lovely. In winter the bise, a cold north-east wind, can blow strongly across the water, and the lake road can be icy in the mornings. Remember that motorway driving in Switzerland needs a vignette.