Nyingchi is the green end of the Sichuan-Tibet Highway, and it comes as a shock after the bare plateau that precedes it. The Tibetan name is Nyingtri, and the town lies at about three thousand metres in the valley of the Niyang river, close to where the great Yarlung Tsangpo bends around the east end of the Himalaya. Here the air is thick and moist, the hillsides are covered in pine, cedar and rhododendron, and the nights smell of damp earth. It is often called the Switzerland of Tibet, a phrase that undersells it.
The highway to get here, the G318, is one of the most famous and demanding roads in the world. It runs from Chengdu to Lhasa across a series of huge ranges and river gorges, crossing passes of over four thousand metres and descending into deep valleys, and the final stage into Nyingchi crosses the Sejila Pass, around 4,700 metres, with views of the peak of Namcha Barwa, which rises to over 7,700 metres and is rarely visible through the cloud. The descent into the valley is a long, wet plunge through cloud forest.
In spring, peach blossoms spread through the valleys of the region, and local festivals celebrate them, while in autumn the forests turn to gold. The area is one of the greenest in Tibet, and it is home to Tibetan, Monpa and Lhoba communities, each with their own traditions. The Yarlung Tsangpo canyon nearby is among the deepest gorges on earth.
Practical matters need care. Foreign travellers need a Tibet Travel Permit and in general have to travel with a licensed guide and an approved vehicle, and the rules for motorbikes are restrictive, so check current regulations with an operator before planning. Fuel is available in Nyingchi, which is a substantial town, but stations along the highway are far apart, and the road is subject to landslides and closures during the rainy season. Allow time for the altitude, and carry rain gear at any time of year.